MY ADAPTIVE PADDLING FIXTURE
(LATEST VERSION OF DESIGN #1!)







     

THE MEASUREMENTS:

Width inside front strap notches: 16.0"* Width outside at rear holes: 27.0" Width of holes, center-to-center: 22.0"* Length from strap center to edge: 23.0" Length from strap center to holes: 29.5"* strap center to front edge: 2.25" Notches to fit strap snugly: 2" * important measurements!

NOTES:

The Aluminum Base can be positioned forward or rearward on the Deck Plate to further accommodate the rider. Use heavy-duty Tie-Wraps to secure the Aft Arms of the Deck Plate to the Factory Installed Eyelets.


Swing the Paddle Boom up for easy access. Do Remember to Hold onto it!

See my latest Boom design below for a plan that eliminates the need for the
wood Hinge Plate and the two bolts that secure the Boom to it (shown above).



Once boarded, the Paddle is lowered and
secured by tightening the Rear Wingnut.
Tighten the others again while you're there!



The Business End! Tape the Paddle Shaft Securely with Duct Tape.
Center the Paddle on the Boom, Not the Paddle-Lock.

Ensure the Paddle Blades are Vertical when the
Paddle is in the Mid-Stroke Position (90 degrees).


This drawing gives details for making the aluminum Mounting Plates as shown above.
See below for the latest Universal design!


Start with a 10" X 10.5" plate of 0.090" Aluminum.
On each 10.5 inch edge, measure in 7" in opposite direction for each side.
Mark and cut the diagonal line between those two points.
Mark and drill all holes, as shown, prior to bending.
Measure 1.75 inches in from the uncut edge, mark and bend 90 degrees.
Be sure to bend one in the opposite direction of the other!

Secure the wooden "Hinge-Plate" or (in the case of my very latest Boom design
shown below) the Boom itself between the plates, then secure the Plates to
the Deck Plate, adjusting their position lengthwise to suit the paddler.




Here's my very latest (as of August 31, 2006) design for the aluminum mounting plates.

This latest design for the plates will provide more functionality and
adjustability for both the sit-on-top fixture and for the decked boat
fixture shown on the main web page. This design is also specifically for
use with the latest boom design which eliminates the need for the wooden
Hinge-Plate. Each plate is made from a 12" by 7" plate of 0.90 aluminum.

A bolt through Hole A provides a place for the boom to rest in the up position
during boarding and exiting the kayak. The holes at B and C provide a pivot
point for the forward end of the boom. The holes at D are where the boom rests
in the operating position, and the bolt through D can be used to snug the boom
in place. The holes at E are for mounting to the Deck Plate.

Click on the photos above for the Full-Size (and clearer) versions.


Here's my very latest plan for the Boom...

The thicker end is 1 inch thick, and several holes are drilled
through at 2" spacing to allow for further length adjustment.
This design eliminates the need for the wooden Boom Hinge
Plate and two expensive stainless-steel mounting bolts!

Additionally, Hole A in the Aluminum Mounting Plates (the original design shown
above) can be repeated below and aftwards at 1 and 2 inches distance to allow
more adjustment still, as illustrated with Holes B and C in that drawing.
Holes at B and C illustrate the addtional positions in the new design .

In the case where other than the end hole in the Boom is used,
a slot can be cut into the main Deck Plate to allow the Boom end
to swing down into it. Proper positioning of this slot would catch
the Boom end just right to hold it up in a tipped forward position



This last picture depicts (with my own artistic rendering) what the
Deck Plate would look like with the slot cut in. All that is left is
to incorporate the latest Boom design shown above to eliminate the Hinge
Plate, and the two bolts and wing-nuts that hold the Boom to it.